HALSTON & TZAIMS & AKIRA - PAST-PRESENT-FUTURE

 ROY HALSTON FROWICK

HALSTON

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It is time I tell what I know of HALSTON especially because so much negativity and an exploded image of him exists in the media

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First

Are you noticing the pattern of youtube bios of fashion designers?

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The Dark Story of

Yves Saint Laurent

Halston 

McQueen

Dior

Versaci

Vuitton

Hermes

Gucci

&

More

Actually none of them owned their own name

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Each was/is owned by artless business conglomerates destroying the lives of these designers

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Was or is the House of Dior really great?

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No!

The hype and packaging is great.  The designer is mediocre.  Christian Dior lasted for only

 10 years totally unknown before 1947

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His New Look was not new after world war II.  It was a copied and modified version of anti bellum hoop skirt ball gowns for the most part.  A retro vintage look

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Dior, the label, didn't ever own Dior

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A fabric businessman financier owned it supported by the fashion press and it still is as is, was, for all these famous designers

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Tzaims Luksus' name and logo was never owned by any business conglomerate so it never became a mass produced global label, but is that important? 

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What's in a name?  By any other name a Dior smells as four if called Saint Laurent, Bohan, Galiano or Simons.  It isn't Dior any more

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What if this was reversed?

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Halston could be the greatest stench in fashion history but Anna Wintour claims that title

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The media makes and breaks people and Halston is the best example, after Yves Saint Laurent, to have suffered from this redictable media crime

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I met Halston through Bill Cunningham, THE New York times reporter, also, like Halston, was once a Chicago hat designer, coming first from Boston and ending in NYC like, but before Halston

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He and Bill belonged to an avant guarde fashion elite group centered around the famous fashion artist Charles James, called a madman by the New York Fashion Press

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It was a small group consisting of Bill, Halston, Antonio Lopez, a fashion illustrater and Joe Eula, who designed Halston's first perfume bottle, also a fashion illustrator.  They connected in Paris with Percival Sauvage, a teen lover of Christian Dior before Yves Saint Laurent became Dior's lover after got to old and Percy left

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EAU SAUVAGE

Percy was Dior's inspiration to name his first men's cologne

SAUVAGE  POUR L'HOMME

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This group was self motivated and independent in the realm of fashion, all very, but limited, creatively and from relatively unwealthy families.  I fit in but not perfectly and also not realjzing what it might lead to

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Roy Halston Frowick was the lover of Charles James

Charles James wasn't a madman.  He simply insisted in not compromizing his independence which the fashion press pushes designers into and losing control of their self determination and independence.  The fashion press is employed by corporate businessmen that use the press to gain control of a designer's name and logo

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This was most evident with Halston and Yves Saint Laurent both gullible to be wealthy and famous

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 Money

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Every designer at one point is forced to bring in financial backing to succeed, to continue

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One day, as I experienced, something a designer creates sells greatly and becomes bigger than he can financially manage.

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 He creates something taking very little money that sells massively so to fill the order, the demand, he immediately needs $1.Million to deliver

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The press push this by reporting favorably on it

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When I met Halston he was well established in NYC at Bergdorf Goodman just designing hats

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For me he was formidable being so poised, secure, so young, yet the quintessential image living lavashly in NYC's social elite luxury

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I was hardly that well situated and instant fame for me drove me to face a style of life I had no experience in, yet Halston admired, greately envied, and respected me.  His constant attention was over whelming and greatly helped me face this fashion cum society world that I was suddenly thrust into

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He was loyal and dedicated so when the fashion press started to taint my image, demanding favors, free clothes, from me  he stuck by my side.  Though very fickle and pretentious, he was, for me consistant

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The fashion press started to call me a madman just as they did with Charles James when I turned down millions of dollars from DuPont and Allied Chemical, makers of Nepalm, for not endorsing their synthetic fibres

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I knew what I was doing and I knew I wasn't mad, so did Halston, so I asked Bill Cunningham to introduce me to Charles James

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Cunnungham refused but Halston did and arranged for us to have dinner at Elaine's private dining room

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Charles was impeccably dressed, lean, elegant, intelligent as a fine 

British gentleman should be.  We became instant friends

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Charles, was much greater than Halston ever could be.

Charles revealed to me what what the fashion world was

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Though Bill Cnningham, from painful experience, explained previously, that the corporate business people and lawyers were Sharks, the Buyers were Baracuda and the fashion press and public relations agents were Pirana.  

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Charles James was hardly mad jn the least

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The greatest and best thing that Halston and I achieved was having lunch at the new L'Etoil restraunt in the Sherry Netherland Hotel which was, together, our choice for showing my next collection of haute couture.  The manager agreed but it could only be available after closing, cleanup, and after the staff left, just before Midnight

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I accepted

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A HISTORC FIRST 

MIDNIGHT 

BLACK TIE 

FASHION EVENT

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Halston made my hats from my designs except for three spectacular fearher hats.  One, a magnificent long black feather crowning helmet he designed for me

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Mother of pearl & Prussian Peacock Blue Sequin gown by Luksus with long black feather head dress by Halston 1966 Winter

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New York Times photo and only photo of this gown and head dress in existance

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That was in July 1966

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 Now jumping ahead to December, my financial backers wanted total control of my fabric and fashion companies, cutting me out

Instead i shut everything down and kept my name and logo so it couldn't be commercialized by them

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I wasn't about to do what what I advised Halston not to do.  Eventually he did

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Before December Halston decided to buy my fabrics and start making clothes at Bergdorf Goodman

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Only a few and only custom since he hadn't tried making clothes before meeting me and Bergdorf had to hire a nameless fashion designer for this venture

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I was locked out by my financial backers for shutting them down, but Halston found a wealthy young couple, Didi and John Ryan, who offered to bring me by backing me financially again

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Halston, totally unselfishly, sought out opportunities for me from his wealthy clientelle

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Having been burned so badly by John and Jane McCullough in Vermont, I was relunctant accepting the contract details theJohn Ryan demanded.  Didi was too flambouyant in a gay life fashion style I disliked, very decadent, and John was too hard nose artless business

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For me to agree to this, it was the same as jumping out of a comfortable and very cool frying pan into a fire

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This ended my close association with Halston on a daily basis by me refusing but not our friendly contacts.  I didn't hear from him for some time

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Then I heard he left Bergdorf Goodman and started his own fashion house on Madison Avenue, a location I preferred over Seventh Avenue and just what he knew I wanted

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I visited him there once for lunch and he was almost the same but now with a more gay and seriously commanding attitude, perhaps because Didi Ryan was also there for lunch in his Safari set up with him keeping up appearances for her who now he dressed exclusively

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John and Didi backed him after I turned them down

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Now a very new Halston emerged and what happened to the Ryans, I never knew

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I took up with Rebekka Harkness and entered the Paris Haute Couture and Halston climbed into my position in NYC as it's top fashion designer

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I was locked out of NYC fashion by the US fashion press

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Then Pierre Berge of Yves Saint Laurent, in 1968, locked me out of the Paris haute couture with the help of  

La Monde and Le Figero newspaper fashion critics,

and John Fairchild of Women's Wear Daily through Eugenia Sheppard in NYC

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Part II

THE RISE AND FALL 

of 

HALSTON

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I may have known Roy Halston Frowick better than anyone and I felt in him, his innocent friendship, much the same as were he my, younger brother who might display toward me what he might with an older brother.  We had much fun together.  I quickly saw his two sides.  The bold social image and societal ladder cljmbing as well as his feeling of self doubt, inferiority, the need to have a mentor, someone to wind down with but he and I were nothing alike and there was a side to him that I felt uncomfortable with, that disturbed me.

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 Not fear of anything from him sexually untoward, but an emminent disastor waiting ahead for him in his future path.  He was reckless, took to much for granted, walking on thin ice, was perched on a thin branch like Humpty Dumpty sitting on a flimsy wall

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Actually I dismissed it but when he told me he wanted to start making clothes then I should have realized something was amiss

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Could I have saved him.  Most probably not since our directions, though close to being parallel with one another, was also the thing that separated us

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His flambouyant, though forceably controlled, gay life style was not in any way appealing to me.  Like Cunningham neither had any sexual appeal.  In my view they were bland, both were asexual, just robotics paying their way sexually through life secretely but not discretely

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I wasn't gay in any sense of the word daunted by my Saturnian earth bound reality and though I walked among their kind and their way of life I wasn't ever part of it

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Luxuriously, abandoned  impractical living was Halston's style, Cunningham, on the other hand, pretending to be poor but coming from a wealthy Boston high society family he was exiled from

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Though never did we visii one another at our private lodgings in NYC,  I never saw where he lived than.   He did stay at Buckthorne Hall one week end in October to a house Masked party I was giving.  He, Bill, Antonio and Juan arrived in a black limo and slept in the servants wing since I had older guests, including a Vanderbilt, in the main bedrooms

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Now after he took up with the Ryans I mostly lost touch with him.  His dark side I saw emerged in him, fame was a deadly path for him and as he rose in the fashion lime light he lost his work ethic ability and producing nothing himself 

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He hired ruthless ambitious designers, and from the Studio 54 and Lisa Minalli caberet life style he indulged in he became famous for his drug addiction and lost design credibility with high paying  gay sex blatently advertised proving him now less a designer and creative person to one heading for self destruction as did Andy Warhole and Yves Saint Laurent.

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He did exactly what I told him never to do.  Sell his name.  But he did, to Norton Simon for only $14 or 16 Million which in his hands would quickly slip out

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It happened, but before this I visited him at his Olympic Tower atalier.  He kept me waiting then refused to see me,

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Then all hell broke out when the NY Times featured the most destructive  press assault on him.  Much worse then they ever did to Charles James and me years before but with Halston they murdered him by revealed he had AIDS, was locked out of the Olympic Tower, lost owning his name, baning him from fashion for life, and published his home address and private phone number

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J was in shock.  I called his number but always busy as though it was off the hook.  It was busy for days.  I knew somehow the terrified boy was still in him and he needed a friend.  

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Late one night I walked to his town house.  Rang.  A man answered over a voice contact.  Be said Halston was busy, I insisted,  Halston came and spoke but didn't answer the door.  I asked if I could help.  He said no.  We talked, he thanked me

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As I turned to leave three men with pipe wrenched from a white van came toward me.  They had waited for days for him to come out claiming Halston infected their younger brother with AIDS and planned to kill him

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They let me go but after turning the corner I told the doorman of the elegant apartment house to call the police as a white van was parked at their service door with ill intentions and threatening people

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I walked home to 56th street thinking about it all

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Then I read he drove his Rolls Royce to San Francisco and died of AIDS in hospital

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What a great loss of life of one young boy's dream turning into perhaps the greatest tragedy in  US fashion history

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Could this have happened to me had I tossed caution to the wind for a few million dollars unlimited fame and fortune? 

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NO!  NEVER

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AKIRA

How did Akira, the Japanese Fashion designer fit into Halston's life and my own in Halston's last years?

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PART III

One day in the 1980s I received a phone call at my 56th Street apartment

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"My name is Akira.  I am First fashion assistant for Halston.  I greatly admire your fashions and fabrics.  Can we meet for lunch very soon.  I want to meet you and tell you what is happening at Halston's"

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We met but our association was short lived.  He said his job at Halston was to cut up my clothing, make copies of patterns, and destroy them.  He claimed Halston was buying everything I designed and manufactured and my clients were giving or selling him what they bought from me and destroying all my work

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Akira said Halston didn't know how to design, drape, cut or sew clothes.  He had an army of designers designing everything. He claimed Halston considered me the most creative fashion and fabric designer in the world and he had to erase my work so it could never be compared with what his company produced

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Halston felt that Yves Saint Laurent was not a real designer but only a copier that was evident in YSL's output and was no real competition for Halston

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I listended to this now understanding why Halston refused to meet me at the Olympic Tower.  

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Soon after Akira left Halston and opened his own questionable fashion house on Seventh Avenue and asked me to come design along side him

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I did for a few days but his way conflicted with mine and being Japanese he didb't really understand American fashion but instead was pursueing that of decadent Paris

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My heart was no longer actually, at this time, in fashion in a commercial way

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There was no longer a wealthy clientelle I respected and simply designing to thrill a parasitic fashion press with dazzling creations, not wearable as was the trend now did not give me reason

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For me contemporary fashion was dead.  I was no longer needed or wanted,  Wannabe fashion designers were poping up like weeds especially from Japan after 1968

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Akira soon became hateful, arrogant and threatening once I started designing beside him

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Then Bernard Arnault emerged, backing Christian LaCroix and sealed the fate of rational fashion credibility, Lagerfeld took over Chanel, Fendi and European fasion design houses took over NYC. Then the final blow. 

 Anna Wintour, the Devil wearing Prada, with Vogue Magazine, devastated American designers teaming up with the irresponsible but talented public relations  

agent Percival Sauvage, now in London and Paris, by elevating and tearing into Alexander McQueen, the terrorist, hell raiser, car fire bomber

and Scottish trash designer, leading him to hang himself after Bernard Arnault further destroyed him by giving him short lived Givenchy's atelier in Paris. 

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Finally John Galiano disgraced Dior and Arnault hired the untalented Belgian, Rafe Somers, for the house of Dior ending all Paris haute couture reasoning

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Yves Saint Laurent claimed all be became was a lipstick and every older known designer claimed they were the last couturier as if being last was greater than being first

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Run way shows became circus events competing for most lavish setting and fashion week became over crouded fourist attractions

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 Let us not leave out Versaci's murder in Miami Beach by a disfuncshinal sex partner Versaci had passed on AIDS to.  Like Halston

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The end started with John Lennon's murder, Princess Diana taking up with Dodi Alfaied, crashing in a brutal deadly death in a car accitent in Parix,  and finally Andy Warhole being shot, Halston  eliminated and  Pierre Berge's expose docudrama of his sexual control of Yves Saint Laurent

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Then, most recently, China expose manufacturing Hermes $38,000 Birken bags and Paris luxury fashion house goods, cheap

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THE FALL OF LVMH

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Now

THE FALL 

OF 

DIOR

LOUIS VUITTON

HERMES 

& 

GUCCI

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Have a nice day

😀

So what does it all mean?  What does it lead to?

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 One man making a $Trillion buying up long dead designer and luxury companies and marketing them as living, whilst those creating them died long ago after struggling just to survive

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Does any of it matter?

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NO?

I don't have an answer to any of this.  I only know whilst one gets everything, no one gets anything. Haute Couture isn't mass produced.  Logos are powerful

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As a young man I instinctly knew that I had to be alert to the dangers of careless actions

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When my sudden success started escallating me into the public limelight I had to be prepared to retreat on a moments notice

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I did face being taken over by fnanciers but I immediately walked away.  I didn't sell out.  I wasn't working to make others rich.  Their money provided a purpose that made them responsible.  

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So when the Bennington business backers pulled their stunt to take over my fashion and fabric companies I made sure they went bankrupt, losing their investments

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They made certain I owned nothing and I made certain they gained nothing and lost everything

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Was I wrong?  No.  It was fair.  It was my creation and I could not be separated from it

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Walking away freed me and I knew how to end what I started

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Cleaning up the mess they made to get rich quick was not my responsibility

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Now, does it all seem negative?  Not really.  In fact, for me, it is eye opening experience.  I am both the first and the last survivor from the 1930s to possibly 2030s.  Almost 100 years of great experience and greater then having a thousand stores, selling cheap mass produced cheap goods called luxury or to fly to the Moon and Mars reign over Paris or pocket

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$100 Trillion USD

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  It keeps growing!

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The Experience

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I will close on this note since there is nothing more to say except

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BONJOUR

🙏🏼

Good Day

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To straighten the record

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TZAIMS LUKSUS, FRSA

Here are a few facts about me you wont find in opinions, hear say, gossip, fashion and media articles, Youtube, Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook

😇

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I was born at home on Francisco Avenue in Chicago, Illinois,  USA

1 January 1932

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I attended Edward aTobin Elementary School and Argo Community High School

i was a Cheer Leader and in the Chorus and Drama departments

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My father was 15 years old, a Czarist Russian arriving from Saint Pertersberg, Russia, lastly from Kovno, Leituva, in Boston, Massachusetts, May 1912

His heritage is Viking Russ, Viking Kievan, Kievan Russ, Mongolian & Lithuanian

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My mother is English, Scottish, Welsh, French anf Savoyard but landed British/American gentry in 1607 building Fort James in Jamestown, Virginia and in the Massachusetts Bay Colony 1630 and her family founded New Haven County, Connecticut in 1636

She was born in August 1904

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I had two brothers, Raymond and John Jr (Gene).  I was the second born, Raymond first

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I married once in 1957 to the Countess Anna Dolores Mickevich, great grand daughter of the epic Polish poet Adama Mickeviciu

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I divorced her in 1961 for having a child, a boy, I named David after the statue by Michaelangelo, by another man before being married to me, but claiming I was his father to legitimise him.  I never married again nor became close to another woman though I designed beautiful fabrics and clotbes for them

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Miriam Kellogg Fredenthal was my textile instructor at the Philadelphia Museum School of Art where I studied Architectural Interior Design under George Mason and Engineering.  Mirium was 15 years older than me and became my textile technician and Vice Presedent of my textile mill operation, 

Tzaims Luksus, Incorporated in 

Bennington, Vermont

We were not married

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I was led into designing clothes by Stanley Marcus of Neiman Marcus in 1966

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I hired George Haley to assist in my first all silk print couture/RTW/collection in 1966

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i closed both my fabric and couture operations in Bennington in December 1966 due to unreasonable and illegal policies and actions being performed by my Bennington financial backing board of directors

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I re-opened briefly with funding from Rebekka Harkness in 1967 and produced my second couture collection showing first in Paris at The Hotel Crillon

with Percival Sauvage arranging every thing for me

 in Paris in JANUARY 1968

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I closed again after it proved to me I could not accept the contract offered me by Harkness attorneys and that I could top Yves Saint Laurent in design in Paris

 

It greatly angered Paris designer business managers, espespecially Pierre Berge, especially when the New York Times claimed I was the new 

Christian Dior!

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I closed my couture and joined Madison Fabrics, that I renamed 

TSM International, Ltd, owned by 

Pierre Godard

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Under TSM I designed fabrics fot the Paris Haute Couture, notably for Yves Saint Laurent, printing silk in Lyon, France, Como, Italy and Jacquard fabrics in Zurich, Switzerland from 1968 to 1971

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Godard ended TSM operations in 1971 and gave my contract without my knowledge or consent to TexFi which they ended after retiring Pierre Godard when he reached 65 years old.  He held my contract so it ended with him in 1972

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I free lanced silk printing for James Galanos, printing silk at Bianchini Ferier in Lyon, France in 1976

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I concentrated on fine art oil painting and created a collection of large oils on canvas for the Prix di Rome for the American Academy at Rome in 1982

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I read The Greats and attended Saint Edmund Hall, Oxford Univerdity in 

1960-1961

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I was elected by Counsel of the Royal Socirty of Art for life in 1974 by 

HRH Prince Philip KG

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I returned to 

Saint Edmund Hall, 

Oxford 

reading 

Medieval Studies 

for a D.Phil 

in 1991

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I migrated to Rangoon, Burma in 2020 permanently

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I lost all my property and collections in Vermont, USA from over taxation of property taxes

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I am approaching 95 years old and in excellent physical and mental health as I write this, recreating my artistic and couture fashions on an exclusive limited production in Rangoon with a young 25 year old creative Burmese gentleman partner, 

Zay Yar Aung, 

who is presently the 65% owner of my company, 

Tzaims Luksus, Ltd 

Rangoon, 

and will own it fully after my death

 I made him acting President  with me as 

Chairman, Treasurer and Artistic Director under a registered 

Myanmar DICA Government investment organization

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It is operatinb under the logo

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Zayar and I are creating a new branch under a new logo

Zayar & Zaims

He already created his own logo

ZYA

Zay Yar Aung

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We are exclusive with only one location in Rangoon 

by exclusive appointment only

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WE DO NOT BELONG TO LVMH, KERRING 

or any global mass proucing fashion company

nor ever plan or wish to be.

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 We are Haute Couture but offer logo tee and Polo shirts in very exclusive limited editions only in and onlu made in

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 Rangoon

we are a Myanmar Company with no ties to the US, Europe or any other Asian country

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Make your exclusive purchase or appointment in Comments to this post only

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We do not offer on eCommerce, web site, 

on-line or Internet

You have to fly here to us in Yangon

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You will find us exclusively at 

No. 35B Bogalay Zay Street, 

Botathaung Township near Strand Road

in Downtown Rangoon  (Yangon)

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We can arrange lodgings at the 

Strand Hotel 

for you if you need it  

Visas for Myanmare are safe and easy by applyjng on-line for a 28 day tourist visa wiih  reasonable lodging stay limitations

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MINGALABA

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Happy days are here again

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🙏🏼

We hope this clears mostly everything that has been messed up over the years by the fashion media and YoTtuber's videos and comments for you

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Truth & fact is better than internet and media fiction

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The Haute Couture is alive and well in Yangon, Myanmar

Better than 

Paris and New York or even Singapore

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Simple but elegant

 

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